Surf Stories: 'Surfing Is My Passion, My Inspiration And My Source Of Love And Inner Peace'

@pitty_fotografia | Pimentel, Peru

Name: Angel Cárpena

Age: 45

Where from: Peru

Years surfing: 35

Favorite board: My Lost Mayhem of 33 lts. It works good in any conditions on my local beach (Pimentel).


My surf philosophy is to share what surfing has teached me: love is the only energy we need to live happily

Surfing is a sport that can be used for personal development to find inner peace, know yourself and explore spirituality, exploring the unique conection with the ocean and nature, like in no other sport, it is a source of clean energy that depends on each one to be driven in a positive way. Surfing is my passion, my inspiration and my source of love and inner peace.
I love surfing because of the connection with nature, the positive energy that it brings to my soul, it keeps me healthy and with good vibes. The surf culture is also very positive but I think that the commercial part is getting in control and I don´t like that. Or I think somehow it is not getting focused on sustainability. I am concerned about losing the real feeling of surfing: be connected with nature and people in a positive way.
My principal goal in surfing was to put surfing as an important part of my life, by doing that I became a better person. I have a lot of dreams about surfing related to surf spots with insane waves like Nias, Mentawais or Hawaii. Other dream is to use surfing as a sport that can change lives, as it did to me.

But it’s not always rainbows and butterflies

My worst surf memory is  surfing with a toxic crowd, where I had an innecesary and stupid discussion with a surfer who didn’t understand the feeling of surfing, a person who saw problems where there weren’t any. That was a clear example of how surf culture could be having some problems in my point of view. At the point of personal development where I am today, I enjoy every surf session that I have, creating a lot of positive surf memories and experiences, I enjoy a lot sharing what I have learned in my surf life.

Angel’s best surf tip

Observe the waves as much as you can before getting out, it sets your mind for the surf session.

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